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One of my favourite spots – Alp Suvretta, Graubünden.

    Alp Suvretta

    Photo: Relaxing at Alp Suvretta in a deckchair.

    If you take the train from St Moritz to Chur via Bergün (and you really should) then shortly after you start the train turns off the Engadine into the Val Bever. The normal train (and I assume Glacier and Bernina Express too) makes an automated announcement that this is the ‘wild and romantic Val Bever’. Which is a bit cruel given that the train then goes into the darkness of the Albula tunnel just before the valley reaches the most wild and romantic part.

    The hike from Spinas to Preda connecting the two ends of the tunnel is highly recommended. The views up the Val Bever are fantastic and once you are over the pass the lake at the end is among the most beautiful in Switzerland. But this post isn’t about that.

    Looking up the Val Bever towards the Alp hut, seen from the hike from Preda to Spinas.

    Further up the valley still is Alp Suvretta. a little farm restaurant a good 10km from Bever itself. The only way to get there is by foot or bike. The ride up the valley is beautiful (if a little bit steep at times), otherwise a 14km walk from the cable car at Piz Nair down to Spinas station would be the easiest and most scenic hike.

    I discovered this by chance whilst spending two weeks in Samedan (see days 11 and 13), there is no website and no marker on Google Maps or anything like that. I came across the Suvretta Loop tour and set out to do it. The tour was fantastic for scenery and not very technical (which suited my skill set) but what stuck in my mind was the Alp.

    Arriving at the Alp hut.
    Following the road over the last little hill beyond the Alp.

    The actual part of the valley it is in isn’t the most beautiful; it is up beyond the mixed forest and meadow and more is heading towards rugged at that point. And the Alp farm itself doesn’t offer anything but very basic drinks and simple/rustic meals (not even a Rösti). It was however one of the most relaxing and welcoming atmospheres I have come across. The occasional other guest turned up or left, but there was mostly just one or two other people around. The hosts were very friendly and there was no rush to move on or make space (I was explicitly invited to stay and rest as long as I wanted after I had finished and paid). I almost fell asleep in my deckchair, and one or two of the other patrons already had.

    I came back a few days later with my wife and it was just as good. Taking the easier (but still bloody steep at times) route up the valley which is all gravel road until the Alp (10km, +570m from Bever itself).

    Map of the location

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